060 woodsmith 1988.12 picture frame moldings, Woodsmith

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NO.60
NOTESFROMTHESHOP
$3.s0
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Sawdust
DonaldB. Pe6chke
Ted
Kralicek
OouglasL Hicks
Oouglas
M.Lidsler
KentA. BucKon
Ken Munkel
DavldKreyling
Ca.y Christens€n
Fod Sloakes
ChrisGlowacki
SandyBaum,Mgr.
JackieStroud
PatKoob
LisaThompson
LeslieAnnGearhart
TerryJ. Slrohman
KenMine]
CherylScotl
JeanCarey
Archie Kiaus€
A.Bor,'T
THIS rssltE. Hislory repeats itself,
or so they say. I ladn't leally thousht
nuch about that in tems of Woods,'ii,
until we stafted work on rhis issue.
I/oo.lsnil/. actualy
goi
stafted in July
1978
when I besan work on th€ firit issue.
,A-sit tlms out, ninety-nine
yeals
earlier,
in May 18?9, my gr€at g?.dfather, Enil
Peschke, stafi€d his o$n compuy.
W]ly am I mentionins this now? The
compdy Emil staded was a
"Manufac
ruer of all kjnds of Mouldings,Pictw
Frames and Curtain Pol€s."
(I'm
lucky
enough to have one of tbe busin€ss fonns
he used back ihen. We incoryorated
it into
the cover
photo
of this
issue.)
So, it's conins
tull cycle, and I'm finally
getting around to making the
pictur€
fi?Ines that seem to b€
part
of my
hei-
tase. Of cours€, l,he moldings
we'r€ shos-
ing in this issu€ are not
.early as oruie
as those Enil
nade 100yeas !go. But
So far, w€'ve added the suppli€sfor
thr€e of lhase
past pnrjects.
Fil5t
is
the
clock novement
(either
brass
kelvind or
quad,"6attery),
dial,
door
slass
(which
is
stenciled d-s
shosn in rhe
jssue)
and the
hrdwde for the Resulator Clock sho$n
in Woods,ril, No. 36.
As a result of a number of
requests. we
ar€ otrering nore choices
for
the Cradle
shoM in Wood3rzil/' No. 48. The cradle
ws orisinaly shown in oak. We now offe.
the spindles
(and
the buttons)
in oak,
If you wanted io bujki the Eurcpea.
Workbench sbo$n in Woo.ls'ritl No. 50,
you
may hav€ had houble
getting
the
vises. It was xol the fault of Woodcraft
Supply
(the
rnail oder source we lisled)-
TheJ did an adnintle
job
of trTing to
set
and ke€p the vises in stock. The
poblem
was $'ith the manufactu€r.
We hale talked directly with the man-
uf&turer and hav€ received a sbipnent of
the vises for t|e Norkb€nch. You can siil
order toon Woodcrafi Supply, and we arc
also tr'.ins io k€rp some on hand.
rcco IIEMS. One of the things I didnt
mention
was the addilion of ihe
"logo"
itens. We nos have a shop apron, a cotree
mug, and a coxluroy
Gp
PrcruRE FRAMES.W]tat
wa-sso much
tun, though, was conins
up wiih a variety
of tuames
usins a limited amount of
machinery. We decided to lirnjt the work
to usins a router table to fom the
prcfiles.
This meant we had to make aI th€ profiles
with router bits. Is this roo linitins?
At
tusr, I thoushi it woukl be. But tben
I began looking at the dozensofrouter bii
profiles avanabb. Thera were actualy too
many choices.So, we took another ap-
pnrach. ALI of tbe
prcfiles
are made by
using onh three silndnrd router bit
pro'
files
(stmisht,
roundover, rnd corebo\).
Using differcnt
sizes of thes€ bii.s, we
were able to
come up wiih seveml dozen
plofilcs.
Then it became
a matter of choos-
iDs which oncs to sho\r
in
this
issue.
We settled on
10profiles.
Some
are very
simple, some ar€ complex.
Th€ key to tbe
complex ones
is that they are rcally
just
combinations
of ihe sinple ones. That is,
the complex moldinss s€'re showins don't
have to be
one srdp of wood that's fomed
by
a very complex bit.
Insi€ad, make sevenl strips with
just
one profile on eeh strip. Then
join
them
together. Conbinations like this ar€ al-
nost endless.All that h3sto be done
is to
find new ways of aranging the stdps to
oe|te new pnrfiles.It's
just
a mntter of
using your imagination.
PRoJECTsuPPuEs.In the lst issue,I
talked aboui the
project
suppli€s
lbr the
p.ojects
sho\rn
in lvoodsntti. lve are
beginning to
so
bek to
proj({ts
sho$D
jn
past issues and trying to find sources
lbr
those suppli€s.
(!'or
sone
of these past
projects, w€ sonetimes listed a source
that
ha-ssince stopp€d carrying tbe items.)
TheWoodsmithStore
aI with the
tYoo{tuDill logoon them.
To be bonestabout
all this, I resisted
offering this t)]rc of tbi.s for many
yees.
But whai triggercd it wa^sa simple need.
I $anted a
spod
shop nprcn.
The typicalbluedennnonesI'!e seenin
sone caialogs ud stoies
just
$'eren't tbe
quality
I wanted. And worse, the
pockets
we.e too small and in the
$mng places.
So,w€ desisDedou own. Actually,Tery
SLrchrmndesign€.liL- ..
NEw FAcEs.Te.ry
joined
oul Pmject
SupplJ tem this
pasl
fall. He
worked in
the Wooik,iill Siore herc
in Des Moines
for $out a
year. The. we r€cruited him
to help
with
the
"fiont
(FebruaryApril,June,Au-
gust,
October,
December)by Woodsmilh
PublishingCo.,2200GrandAve.,Des
Moines,1450312.
Woodsmiih
is a regisleredtrademarkol
WoodsmithPublishinqCo.
ocopyright 1988byWoodsmilhPublishing
Co.All BightsReseryed.
Subscriptlons:One
year(6issues)
$12.95,
TwoYearc
('12
issues)
522.95,
Canadaand
Foreign:add
$2
peryeal
U.S.
lundsonly.
Singlecopy
pric€,
$3.50.
second class
Postage Paid at Des
end" work for the
tbe shopapron
and
getting
the
other logo ilems lined up,
TeFy hLs been working on rll the details
you never ihink about . . . getting t€le
phone lin€s in for the 800 number, desisn
ing th€ foms need€d
to take oders nnd
to ship then, and
tryins io think of ways
to
make th€
entir€
process morc efficient.
He ha-shad several hcadaches.
But things arc prcsressins. And with
Teuy's help, rve hope to offer a wider
l"nse of sewiee for all Woods,riil
prcject
Postmaster: Send changeof addresslo
Woodsmith.Box491
,
Mt.Monis,lL61054.
SUBSCRIPTIONOUESTIONS?
Calltoll
Jree800-,l3H71
5
(lllinois
residenlscall800-
892-0753).
Hours: 7:3OAM to 8:3OPM,
CenttalTime,weekdaysonly.
BACKISSUES:Fora lree bookletdescnb-
inoallolthebackissues,sendio l,Voodsmih,
2'00 c€nd Ave..DesMoines.
lA 50312.
SAMPLECOPYWewillsendafreesample
copyof tlbodsmrti lo anyone.Just
sendus
his/hernameandaddress.
The ne\t issu€ of Wood'
s,riih will be maileddudng the
week of
lebrudJ 2?, 1989.
WOODSMITH
WOODSMrH
(ESN 01&4114) is
pub'
lashed
bimonthly
Ir addiLionto desigDing
NEKr MATLTNG.
!p
s &. Techniques
stock6"long-Now.
to dcicm ne ryhereto
ddll holes for the difibrent
sizcd dorvels,
nark a cenl.olinealoDgtbe
thicknessol
a coting salvor a backs.r1r.
To
pinch
the biadetighi nr the kcr{ I
usea
'/,"
dia.machnres.reN andnut. I)iU
a
rr"-din.
holc, cntofeil on the width of
lhe handle
% trom ihc leadins edse.
Now belel the hoDt
€dgesol lhe handle
so mor€bladecaDbe used.
]RAMINq A 45'
ANGLI
When I set up
the table sl$' for cutting
miters, I us€ a liltle geometrv
to :]djust
the miter g:uge for 45".
To
set
a 45' angle, I use a franring
squtu€ and fom
an
rsos(rlfs
l.fiansle.
(AI
isoscelesLrianslehas
two equalsmes,and
rwo 45" nngles.)
Next nrdkernarkson this cent€rhrc 1"
and 2" fiom eachend of the block.Then
ddll the four
(lo$'el
holes
('r,",
/,'
Lld'
and
'f1")
compl€telv throush
the block.
(Dilling
rbrcugh l.he block allows
the
do$'elto be
pushed
thruush so oneend is
ag:insl.thc fences'hen.utting.)
In ad.lition
to cultingditr€feDldiameter
dowels,I also waDtedthe
jis
lo cut the
dow€lsto differentlengths-To do this, hv
the
block doirn on the band sas'
(so
the
hoiesare hori,onhl)
and cut 2['lons
s.rw keds at
y!"
inteNals
on both cnds of
TRA,'\iIINCSOUTRE
AT€ EOUAIAT
MIIERGAUG!
!TO'
Sinsleedgedfuors hale a smallholein
the cenler of the bl.]dclhnt nccdsto b€
enlarged to acceli the machine scrcrv-
SiDCe
To
set the miter
gauge
to I true
'15"
3ngle,set the naming squ,ueon the top
of ihc table saw. N.rw rlisn the same
measurenenis
on both dms of the firm-
ing squ{e right qainst
the edge oi tbe
thc metalir th€ ruor bh(le is very
b|ittle I
jus!
used r pan of nee(ilenose
pliers
to
snip
oui a hg€f cenlerhole.
hrsed lhe tuof into the sarvkelt lionr
the side so
tht brk ol the bladeis flush
lvith ihe botiom of the saN ke :
(lle
carefulnot to
tush
the shalp edgeof thr
blade.)Then
tishten do\vnthe bla(]€Nith
lhe machnrescre\L
and
nut.
\\rhen usnrs
the scr.tpcr,
.just
push
or
pull
the scnper io scnrpcihc workpiece.
Ca Fei.l
(
ho\'r Hill, N!|,Jtt\.ll
Ne\t loos.n Lhe miter gauge
locking
knob
and
genUv
snug the
gauge
up agan)si
fie fiunis
squnre. Thc miter
sause
is
nolvsct at exactly
'15'.
Then,iightendo$'n
lhe locking knob ad
Ioul€
r.eady
t., cut J
15" mile..
To use the
jis,
align the lence so the
blade fiis inlo the ke|f slol. Insert the
dowelstockirto
the concci dirmeter hole
unlil UrceDrlof the dowel is
againstlhc
leDce.
NoN holdtheiis anddos'elaDdcut
tbrough
the dowcl. Slowly brck the
jis
out, and push the finished
dowelout th€
edgcof l.hc
jis
usinstheuncut
dorvelsto(k.
Repeat lhc
tl|ocodurc
to get the same
r, S.hrtitl illtl
LoDlpoc.Cdtlbtitk!
Editots Note: This tip till r:ork
orllt il
the sau bkd. is potr l.l u,ith th. ntittl
0atule slot. I.l the btkl. ;s na{ p.iall.L,
th. .t
llts
ate atua s
xoiito
to Le oll no
,ntt.r hor,
r.ttectth. ,tit.r
!fi lr
has
beer set. Al$. <:lk(l; lo Dnkt srt. thal
ruur.[iflDti n
sAtlotcis ltul! square.
SPOUTCAP
If
)oule
ahrars losins the snrallspoul
caps finm
cont.incN of snull cans,
gel
someheb lion electddrns.
I keep a larietr of the small diametef
elecl.rician's
Harcltl Sklldcr
Sktk Cal1.x., n, | | s
!
lt\!| nt
t\Liston wire conneet.ors
(so'nelimes
c,.Icd $'ir€ nuts) in the shop.
W}en I lose
a capliom ncanorgluebottle.
I
just
scr€\roDoneofthese DitJ
tlvist-on
RIGHI IENGIH ON
sHORTDOWELS
I use quite a few
short doirels fo.
sluing
joinrs
tosethef. And I've had morc
than
just
a iew
problems
cultins lafious sho(
lengths
fmm n$ do\Lelstock.Tbc ten!,ths
are usudlv inconsistent.and sometimes,
whencuttirg the dowelson
the bandsa\r,
they would be caughtbetrveenth€
blade
andthe rip lence.This not ody ruined
the
dowel
bul. becamea saiety hazrKt .rs \i€ll.
I rcsolved
these
problems
by rnaling .]
verv simplejig
from 2x4 stockthat can
.ul
four ditr€rent sizeddow€l diameteN on
the
band saw. The
jis
(a^s
shown in the
dnwins in
the niddle colmn) will also cut
otr dowels in
1l'
increnents
Lrpto 2" long.
To make lhjs
jis,
slart
by cutting the
lhat I'!e beenusingfor
some time no\L s'ith gr€:rLsucccss.It's
ciled dcior bladnu and I use it tof r
va'iety
of
purposes-
My main us€though
is to remole
anX
glue
thrt sho$'sup \Lhile
stairing,
especiallyalongl.he.dge seams
0n
slued
boarls or in lisht cornel.s.
The docto.bladeis a snrgb'edgedrazor
bladenount€d in a handle.The handleis
rnade 1r.rD
a
,1,'r
l.lrick
piece
of scnp
me&suing 1'l. wi{le
by 6" long.
To make the handle fit comlbrtably in
your hand.
d|aw a hnnd conlour on the
scmpaDdcut ii
out on ihe b:lndsaw.Then
cut a 7."-deep bnnd saw ked in one end
to hotd i.hc blade.
(Th€
band salv
curs
abouLa %,,L$idekef.) You cu alsouse
It,rd Wrtt:tll
Da ir, Caricttit:tt
'IND IN YOUI IDEAS
tipwith
other
teaderc
ol Woodsnilh,send
your
idoa lo:
Woadsmilh,
lips & Techniqu€s,2200Grand
Ave.,DssMoin€s,
lowa50312.
We
pay
a hinimum
ol$10fo.tips,and$15or
morelor
special
?
Please
give
acohpl€testplana-
tionol youridea.
lra skelchis ne6ded.ssndir
along;wo
lldraw
a
nsw
ons.
WooDSMITH
CH'A? SCRAPER
Her€s a technique
llyoudlikeloshafeawoodwo.king
rehniques
(lhat
a.ea@ept€d
lor
publicalion).
St"p_$too!
A STEP
IN THERIGHTDIRECTION
joint€.
EDGI€I.UETHESIOES
I besan by making the two side
(leg)
piec€s.The trick to rnakingtwo miror€d
pieceiis to start with oru blanL see
Fig
1.
Ihen after aI the
srooves
are routed,
it'E cut in haf to cr€atethe two
pieces.
cLUE-up.To nlak€ the blank, start by
edge-sluingthre€
pie€es
of
rx6 pine t
cr€it€ a blank thads
musHy 16vt' wide
and29' lons.
c'ul'rt) sra. A.fterthe
gluedri$, plane
or b€lt-sandthe blaDk
flat. Then cut it to
a width of l4 and
u" long, s€eFig. r.
IAY OUT
I.INEs
Aft€r the blankis cut to size,two dadoes,
a
groove,
and a Ebbet
are rout€d to
join
the other
piec€s
of
the stool,seeFig. r.
DADoEs.Stad
by laying out a
'/,Lwide
dado
for the bottom step 6v;' ftom each
end.this is a stoppeddado,so rna* the
stop line Ya"ftom the ft0nt edge.
oRoovE.
N€xt, lay out a Y,"-wide
gmovet hold the r;s€r. It'8 locat€d67."
from the front edge of the blank and
connects
[aTERtAtS ltsl
CUITING DIA9NAfl
fu-
OsElf Utuiiod: r/ w r lq'f d t 1{
h
A 5i&
{2)
U. t 6L
-
re/.
H,Affi.;gw
I &tlF
(r)
c sr.p
0)
L . l2'/r
-
r6q.
U.t,
-
r6L
D ldd( P.mf(l)
the two dadoes.
B cx naBBEr.Finally, lay out
a rabbet
alongthe ba.k edgefor the ba.k
panel.
The width of the rabbet shodd equalthe
thiclalels of
your
stock
(%t.
ROUIERGUIOE
E ud
0)
Y.,e|A-
lt
.IIO
Aft€r the layout
is
done,
you can besin
Nuting. Tohelpalignthe cutsonthe
lines,
I nade a sinple
guide
jig
for the rcut€r.
Bud,D.[c. the
jig
is
just
a fencenailed
to an 8
-wide
base
of %" Masonite or
plywood,
s€e
Fig. 2. Rip a straight fence
and
nail it to the bas€so the backedseis
Z' fton oneedge,se€Fig.
2.
(Ihe
z, lip is
us€dto clanp the
jis
to
the wo*piece.)
cuT orr
ErrcE.The nicepart abort the
jig
is that you can use it t
get perf€ct
alignmentwith
your
layoutlines.The
key
is that the bit clrtson the edgeof the
iig.
To a.mmplishthjs, mounta v1'straight
bit in the mut€r. then clanp the
iig
down
andlun the rcuter alongthe fen€eso th€
bit cutsthe wast€ofr the front edge.
Now
NOIET
GIOOVE
DETAIL
WOODSMITH
Lile is too shot. For a four
year-old,
that
meansyou needa stoolb€cause
you're
too
shortto re:ch the sinkto brush
your
teeth.
For an adult, it means
you'r€
still
using
the sane stool to re2cha[ the way ba&
on the t p sher of the kit h€n cabinets.
For this
pmject,
we used a basic
aF
Dmach.
The stepstoolis madeof cotmon
iine,
which
is
another
way of sayingit has
a
"country
look." The
joinery
is equaly
hsic tongueand
groove
Y.
t 11- rlL
the cut edge is exactlr" in line {'ith the path
of the bit, seeF's. 2.
ROUIING
Alicl. ihc
jig
js
complcic,il.c:n be usedio
rout Lhetw.r dadoes,the gloove,and the
Bbb€t on the blank.
Rour D,{DoEs.Bcforc foul,ing, I
clamp€dthe sidc blank
(A)
on top of a
coupleof sawhoNes,see lig. :1. lheD I
clampedthe
jis
in
place
so its edse is
ilgled with lhe left edse of the lefi da.lo
iine, seeStep 1, Fig. L
S€l
the
depth of the
router
bit so
it
cuts
a 7" ieep
groove
in the blank taking into
considelaiion ihc thi(kness of the
jig's
ba..e.
(Shce
the base of my
jig
wa^s
'/a'
Lhick,I sel tlre depth of cut at L .)
Now set thc rcul.cragainstlhc lenccot
t}€
jig
and cut the gaoove. nolirg 1r'on
the back edge of the blank lorvdrl the
ftont eilge,see
Step
I in Fig. L
ShopNote: Sincethe routcr bil is iulr-
ing cloch{ise, rcuting lhis directioDactu-
all)'
pushes
tlre muter base tight ag.rinst
NOTE:
srop THr,rDADo.This dado is stopped
'f,"
ftlm the front edge to keep iL nom
sho$ing on ihc frul. edgc of thc sl.ool.
Watch the la]oul lines
andstop
\Lhen
the
bil touchcsthe stopline.
sEcoNDDADo,Nert, move th€
jig
do$n to the dado on the oiher end and
follo\Lthe sameprocedure,
seeStep
2.
cRoovE. Afler these llvo dadoesafe
routed,tum lhejis90'and cinmpii sothe
edse aligns with the l.{out lirc fol the
gloole lor the riser. see
Slet
:.
'l'his
lroove
stafts in the
(lado
oDthe left anil
stopsin ihe dadoon tht dshl.
ShopNote: hrsleadof trying to
pluDge
the bit exaclll in the let dado,I
plunged
lhe muler bii n liltle ahead
(to
rhe dghr)
ofthe dado.Then I hekl the muler firnlv
andmovedit back\Lddsuntilit brokeinto
5IIL3
aAcx RAaBET,The l,6t thing is io roul
th€ r.lbbel lbr
the back
paDel.
Sinceihis
rabbel is /. u'ide,andthe bit is vJ'wide,
it hlls lo be rculed in two slels.
first, align
the edgeofthe iig
sith
the
insi{le Layout line and rout a
,/j
!vi.l€
gloole,
see Sicp
.1.
Then mole l.hc
jis
towdrl
Iou
about v;' aDdnrake another
p:l5sl.o clean out th€ femainjng \raste, see
Fig. 5.
CUI BLANKIN HALF
After thc fouling is complele,
Jou
cancut
lhe
blank
in half
io crl.!:liclwo minored
side
pieces.
To do this, slait bI rough
cutting the blank in haLI\rith lhe mitcr
gauge on lhe lable sarv-
To get ih€ hvo side
lieces
to r.tr(:ll
a
lht:
sa,ie finished length. set the rip lence
13'rL"from ihe biade, see Fi!i. 6. Then
cut eachpiecewith lhc ,o?lori cdgc
against the Iip hnce.
WooDSIIITH
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